Friday, December 27, 2013

Porteño Cumpleaños

Hola Chicos!

O here,

My Porteño Cumpleaños and our Porteño Navidad.

Firstly, it has been insanely hot. Temperatures are over 35 and up to 40 every day, it is super humid and there has been very little or zero wind. The BA government has declared a red alert citing that all groups of people (not just infants, elderly or sick) are at risk of heat related health threats.

Cat snoozing under a frozen tea towel
We are housing/cat sitting for some friends of ours in their apartment in Recoleta. It's a great place in an excellent location and, best of all, there is a beautiful view of the Recoleta Cemetery and you can even see the Rio de la Plata and Uruguay in the distance, but no air conditioning.


Neither of us have ever been cat people but these little guys with their amazing personalities have really started to grow on us, I think we are going to miss them. Cosmo is the skinny Ginger cat (I like to call him Kramer because he's a bit of a nut). Pepper is the little gordita cat and she is very affectionate and loving, but has enough brute strength to put Cosmo in order when he is going wacky.

Cosmo and Pepper
So I was lucky enough that Heather celebrated my Birth Month this year! As far as I know, this is completely her invention, I really liked it, but it took a bit of effort on her part. So the way it works is on the first day of the month of your Birthday you get your first present, and you get a new present every day. Luckily I was born on the 19th so I get 19 presents. Heather was born on the 31st... now I see why she invented this. If you're unlucky enough to be born on the 1st..well sucks to be you, because you only get one present.

There is one very important rule to follow when delivering a Birth Month to your loved one, the present of the following day each day MUST be better than the one of the previous day. So anyway, Heather took a photo each day of me with my new present, I admit, at first I wasn't very motivated, but seriously, as the presents got better, I really started to enjoy this whole Birth Month thing.

Day 1 - Manky Clove of Garlic
Day 2 - A very hard pear
Day 3 - Sticky pen
Day 4 - Spoon of Dulce de Leche
Day 5 - Voucher for one Bear Hug
Day 6 - Toothpaste
Day 7 - Pepito Alfajor
Day 8 - Snickers!
Day 9 - Flowers
Day 10 - Three types of chips in one packet!
Day 11 - Pepas!!!! My fav
Day 12 - Asado poster
Day 13 - Guide of the good Asador (BBQ Chef)
Day 14 - Helado, had to pick three new flavours, Maracuya, Creme Brûlée and Mascapone
Day 15 - New Palo Santo Mate
Day 16 - 1.5kg of Premium Bife de Lomo (fillet steak) 
Day 17 - Clipper
Day 18 - Matera (for carrying all your Mate goods, Thermos, Mate, Bombilla y Mate.
Then came my actual birthday which is documented below by a series of photos.

Started with my 19th Birth Month present, front row tickets to see Luis Salinas, a famous Argentinian Guitarist
Then Cafe con Leche y Mediualunas in La Biela
Then to an amazing french Bakery to pick up a couple of Mini Smeterling cakes
Then we had lunch at our favourite Parrilla, Rodi Bar!

Then unfortunately, we both had work to do so we settled in for a few hours in the apartment, well... on the balcony
Then that night we went to see the second Hobbit movie over a week before it was released in Australia :D
And went to see Luis Salinas on Saturday night (until 3am Sunday Morning!)
Then the following weekend we went to this amazing Restaurant called Siga La Vaca (Follow the Cow) - all you can eat Asado, so good!
Then Christmas. This year we omitted buying gifts for one another and decided to just have a feast on Christmas Eve, as they do in Argentina, where Christmas day is more like Boxing day in Australia. We had already gifted each other by purchasing a lot of flights and hotels for all over Argentina in January/February, such a huge holiday is present enough for us.

The closest we got to having a christmas tree - Lepi's Arbol de Navidad
Roasted Veggies, Morron, Papa, Cebolla y Verdura Entraña
Pan from Lepi, delish
Asado, Bondiola y Chorizos
Delicious Trifle for Dessert
Pan Dulce from Plaza Mayor the next day for breakfast with Freddo Helado
After a giant feast and champagne on Christmas eve we watched a little tv and feel asleep only to be woken at 12 by about 6 hours of constant fireworks. Not the official city type, just from everywhere all around us. On Christmas Eve and New years the Porteños take to their terraces and let loose. Not as pretty as proper fireworks but it certainly made a very cool sound.

Finally some (slightly) cooler weather rolled through
And of course it wouldn't be BA without a dose of daily excitement. At 2 am this morning we were awoken by several very loud explosions. When we peered down off the balcony we could see large crowds of people staring at our building and a very bright glow of flames and lots of smoke coming up from below us. A few minutes later we arrived in the street with nothing but 2 cats in a box to find out that it was just an exploded car...


And that was my Porteño Cumpleaños and our Porteño Navidad,

Merry Christmas to all and happy new year!

Sunday, December 15, 2013

Un Mes Muy Ocupado

Hola Chicos!

Oops, so it's been almost a month since the last blog post. I guess we've been so busy planning and booking for the trip in January! We've changed the plans a bit, skipping Peru/Machu Picchu as the flights were going to cost an arm and a leg (almost as much as it costs to fly here from Australia)! So instead, we're focusing on Argentina (and a little bit of Chile and Uruguay). 

Anyway this is the last month in a nutshell...

I had a quick two-day trip to Brazil (Belo Horizonte) for work. An eye-opener as to how different Spanish and Portuguese really are, some beautiful country-side, hot weather and great food!

Belo Horizonte
My dinner - So I order what I was told was steamed fish. After eating I was immediately informed that it is actually Eel! Nasty!!
We finally went to the zoo! I love zoos but have heard bad things about the Buenos Aires zoo - it's located right in the centre of the city, in a relatively small area and with very old infrastructure. So, I would guess, very small, concrete cages with all the pollution of the city and some very sad animals. So Osc and I skipped that experience and headed out for the day to Temaiken - a nature reserve in a town called Escobar, about 1 hr drive from the city. We have pretty high 'zoo standards' coming from Perth but Temaiken was incredible. The animals had very large, natural enclosures that were mostly open air. Also, I think even if there were no animals, it would still be a beautiful park to walk around!

Albino wallaby











Osc was so happy we got to go in the room with the bats...me not so much
Happiest shark ever!
We've had some great asados (BBQ meat-fests) at friends places!
The SRK family 
Romulo - we fell in love
Beautiful weekend house!
The city put on a great (and free) Jazz Festival.
Jazz Festival
We've tried plenty of new restaurants/bars.

Nachos!
Owned them!
Bife de Lomo at the ol' favourite - Rodi Bar
Brunch at Le Pain
Mixed Fajitas
This Friday night we spent at 'El Gato Viejo' - the warehouse/studio/restaurant/bar/junkyard/gallery of artist Carlos Regazzoni. It is located right next to the train station and the entrance to the main city slum. So, walking off the main street, down a very dark alley way lined with junkyard scrap and some big, manky dogs definitely felt like we were on the 'wrong' side of the city. But it made for a great night with some nice art, good company, interesting live music, very 'different' crowd and good food with vegetables grown on-site.







I had an interesting brush with a not-so-nice group of Argentinians. Finishing work at 6pm on Tuesday I started walking home and quickly realised something was up when I could cross the main avenue '9 de Julio' in one change of traffic lights (it ALWAYS takes at least two, sometimes up to 4 if you haven't perfected your crossing technique). Last year, the fans of local futbol team Boca Juniors had created their own day of 'celebration' and they were back at it again this year. All of the main streets were shut down so no taxis or buses and there were tens of thousands of crazy fans at the obelisk -setting off fireworks, jumping up-and-down (naked and/or drunk) on traffic lights, fighting the riot police, breaking and vandalising everything in sight (including the obelisk, the brand new city 'Metrobus' and the big, beautiful Argentine flag that usually flies next to the Obelisk), and breaking windows/completely trashing all the nearby businesses. All in all I think one fan was killed, 10 police were injured and lots of damage was done. So sad and embarrassing for everyone else, and all for absolutely no reason whatsoever. Oh, and of course, I got home safe, I was extremely lucky to have left just early enough to miss the worst of it and, going to the office in centro everyday, I am getting pretty skilled at avoiding angry protesters (there's a skill to put on my CV along with my mad traffic light crossing skills).

The obelisk (photo from internet)
On a completely unrelated note (haha I promise this has absolutely nothing to do with futbol fans), we're coming home!!!! When we moved here we had no idea how long we were going to stay but we thought roughly a year. So the original plan was to be leaving the end of May 2014. However, the crash of the mining boom seems to be following me around the world and the project I came to work on has been halted for at least a year. I have been offered a position at the company here indefinitely, but, as work is starting to gradually pick back up again in Oz, I think it's a good time for us to be heading home. So we are heading back to Perth at the end of February - a week or so after my family return home from their trip here, and just in time for Osc to start uni and also to be there for the arrival of our new niece (or nephew, I guess). Seems like the timing is right. We're both a little sad to be leaving so soon as the last 6 months has gone very quickly and we do really love it here, but we are also tremendously excited to be coming home (and to start planning our next trip)! 

What else? It's ridiculously hot and humid, Oscar's birthday is coming up this week and we're also going to be apartment/cat-sitting over Christmas and New Years - it will be great to have some furry friends for a while. Then my family will be here January 18 (yay!!!!) and we will set off on our travels of Argentina.

And for some random photos...
'Love is in the Air'
Christmas at Recoleta Village
?!
Device for filling bananas with different flavours?! Really?!
The dulce de leche aisle
Lunch with some SRKers


Besos y abrazos,
H